The ingrown hairs of the beard in black men are called, technically, pseudofolliculitis barbae. Almost everyone knows what you mean, though, if you call them "razor bumps." This irritation and swelling around an ingrown hair occurs mostly in young black men because the hair and hair follicles in blacks are more curved than in whites.Razor bumps develop when the sharp, razor-cut tips of curly hair, sharpened by frequent shaving, cut into the skin in an arc and grow inward.
Several factors make the condition worse:
Stretching the skin out and pulling it taut when shaving. Once the skin is released, the short hairs pull back below the surface of the skin. Because of their curve and sharp tip, they re-enter the skin and pierce the wall of the hair follicle.
Shaving against the grain. . Shaving with a dull blade.
Shaving with a 2-track razor. That extra track cuts the hair below the level of the skin before it has a chance to snap back.
There are no easy solutions to this common, painful inconvenience, but here are a few hints that can help:
The simplest answer is to grow a beard and all the bumps will disappear in about a month. Why? Because by the time the hairs are about a half-inch long (in a month or so), the natural tension will cause the ends of the hairs to spring out of the skin.
Since you may not want a beard for the rest of your life, change your shaving routine as follows:
1. Before shaving, carefully lift out any ingrown hairs with a straight pin or a beard pick.
2. To soften the hairs, wash your face thoroughly with soap and hot water for at least two minutes. Rinse.
3. Apply an aerosol shaving cream and lather up for two more minutes.
4. Use only a single-edge razor.
5. Shave gently, using smooth, even strokes.
6. Shave down-one way-on the cheeks and chin.
7. Shave up-one way-on the neck.
8. Shave over one area only one time. Do not shave repeatedly over the same area.
9. Don't pull your beard taut when shaving.
10. Use a new razor blade every time you shave. If you can find a single-edge disposable razor, use it.
11. Shave every other day for the first two weeks, then daily.
Don't expect to get a smooth, clean shave the first few times you use this method. Be patient. After a while, you may be able to train your hairs to grow out straight, or at least straighter, rather than in a curl.
If this method doesn't work, here are a few other suggestions:
Use a chemical depilatory. But beware-they can be irritating, they take a long time to use, they don't smell very pleasant, and they should not be used more often than every other day.
Use electric barber clippers to shave. Since they do not cut the hair as short, they do prevent razor bumps. At the same time, though, you may not be happy with the not-as-close shave.
Electric shavers, unfortunately, aren't much help with the problem of razor bumps.
Don't expect to get a smooth, clean shave the first few times you use this method. Be patient. After a while, you may be able to train your hairs to grow out straight, or at least straighter, rather than in a curl.
If this method doesn't work, here are a few other suggestions:
Use a chemical depilatory. But beware-they can be irritating, they take a long time to use, they don't smell very pleasant, and they should not be used more often than every other day.
Use electric barber clippers to shave. Since they do not cut the hair as short, they do prevent razor bumps. At the same time, though, you may not be happy with the not-as-close shave.
Electric shavers, unfortunately, aren't much help with the problem of razor bumps.
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